BrewDog Nanny State: hops galore, needs backbone

Nanny State is hoppy enough to please IPA lovers, but lacking in structure compared to the best non-alcoholic beer.

I cracked open my first Nanny State with a sense of exploration prompted by the malleable self-description printed on the can: “Hoppy golden.”

That could mean almost anything.

My eyes saw the golden. My nose started sniffing for some clarification.

It came quickly: Hops did all the talking.

Strong hops, but not overdone

The aroma rising from my glass made it clear BrewDog had not made a golden ale that happened to have some hops. Rather, this is an IPA that happens to have some gold.

A dank bouquet of hops sprang forth, loaded with an impressive range of scents.

The blend was dominated by grapefruity citrus and dotted with sharp, skunky accents that evoked hop-heavy boozy-beer IPAs. It’s definitely a brew on the hoppy side, but not off-putting.

Nanny State has a solid foundation of bitterness and a something-for-everyone blend of hop flavors that lingers long with a pleasant aftertaste.

The brewer’s notes list Cascade, Centennial, and Citra. As any brewer knows, getting a hop blend right is all about timing and balance. BrewDog nailed the additions on this trio.

The hops really do shine in this NA, becoming better than the sum of their parts.

I hate to call an NA ‘watery,’ but…

Unfortunately, I found the grain bill behind this NA somewhat less pleasing.

It’s not that the light roast malts in Nanny State were bad. I didn’t detect any jagged edges that too often plague blondes.

Still, the malts left me wanting. The name “Nanny State,” if anything, implies there would be structure. But that’s exactly where this NA fell short.

Nanny State is in need of a backbone. Its mouthfeel was watery.

I don’t mean the delicate frame of a session IPA. I mean watery.

While tasting Nanny State, I kept finding myself reminded of the excellent hop water produced by craft boozy-brewer Lagunitas.

This NA could actually be a go-to option for fans of hop water, but I wanted the malts to pull their weight more than they did.

TheBestNA Rating

This review gives BrewDog’s Nanny State a solid “B” grade, which it attains because of its enviable hop profile.

Nanny State stands in okay as an NA alternative to a session IPA. It’s definitely worth a try, especially for hop lovers. (I recommend pairing with hot weather!)

But in the quest for NA that doesn’t feel like drinking something less than a traditional beer, Nanny State’s body misses the mark.

BrewDog Nanny State Non-Alcoholic Beer (0.5% ABV)

TheBestNA.com staff

Flavor / Aroma

89%

Mouthfeel / Structure

79%

84%